ZW Coat by Birgitta Helmersson
The ZW coat is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. Also comes with tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add this.
Details
Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out and tape together.
This pattern comes with 2 options, a short and a long coat. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, the long coat is more suited to mid-intermediate sewers, however if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.
Based on using a fabric that is 150cm / 59 inches wide. You can make this coat longer or shorter by choosing a fabric with a wider or narrower width. Please note if you need a longer arm length than the below measurement you will need to add more to your fabric usage. Add double the amount you need, ie to add 5cm / 2 inches your sleeve length your fabric usage will be 150cm / 59 ½ inches. This is particularly important for the SHORT COAT as if your sleeve is too short the arm band will sit higher on the arm and feel too tight. More detailed adjustment info is included in the pattern.
SIZE CHART: Chest/bust 86-104cm / 33-40″, waist 66-84cm / 26-33″, hip 88-108cm / 34-42″
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS
Short Coat
-Length, shoulder to hem: 77cm / 30 1/4 inch
-Chest/waist/hem circumference: 185cm / 72 3/4 inch
-Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 1/2 inch
-Sleeve bicep circumference: 42cm / 16 ½ inch
-Sleeve wrist circumference: 27cm / 10 ½ inch
Long Coat
-Length, shoulder to hem: 118cm / 46 inch
-Chest/waist/hem circumference: 162cm / 63 ½ inch
-Sleeve/arm length, true shoulder point to sleeve hem: 57cm / 22 inch
-Sleeve bicep circumference: 52cm / 20 inch
-Sleeve wrist circumference: 37cm / 14 ½ inch
Difficulty
Advanced beginner.
Fabric
Ideal in a mid heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style, you will need to make sure you fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.
Fabric requirements:
*This coat is cut against the grain (cross-wise) which means that the width of your fabric determines the length of your coat.
Recommended width: 145 – 160 cm / 57 – 63 inches
Short coat: 140cm / 55 1/2 inches (approx 1.55 yards)
Long coat: 200cm / 78 inches (approx 2.2 yards)
Notions
- Matching thread
- Bias tape or binding. Approx 3 metres / 118 inches. This can be used to finish some of the seams on the inside and is a really nice finish when using heavy coating. You can use either a pre cut binding from a roll or cut your own using a lightweight cotton or linen.
- 3 x 20-25mm buttons
- Approx 25cm / 10 inch of fusible interfacing. Only required if you are using a lighter weight fabric and is used to fuse the inside of the collar and front facings.
- Lining. This coat doesn’t need a lining but the booklet includes tips on how to add one if you want to for some extra warmth. More info in the booklet on this.
Zero Waste Method
Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used. This pattern does not require printing of large pattern pieces, instead you draw your pattern pieces directly onto your fabric with the aid of a cutting plan and templates. We love working with this method for 3 reasons:
1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.
2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns : Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.
3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!
Handy resources
Explore other makes on insta #zwcoat
Tutorials
FINISHING SEAMS WITH BIAS TAPE / BINDING ON THE ZW COAT
ATTACHING THE COLLAR ON THE ZW COAT
FITTING NOTES AND SIMPLE HACKS FOR THE ZW COAT
ZW COAT HACK – REVERSIBLE QUILTED JACKET
$26.50
